With the invasion of the Russian Army to Ukraine, Ukraine’s once-thriving fashion industry has been terribly affected.
While many designers have repurposed their talents to create attires for the Army Force, there is an urgent need for support from the global fashion community. This will definitely help Ukrainian designers in their attempts to both sustain and rebuild their businesses as a part of the overall economy of Ukraine, which, unfortunately, is experiencing severe blows in today’s realities.
Nowadays, all the creatives are cut off their income because let’s face the truth, people at war are not actually interested in fashion, so there is no demand for stylish outfits, which means that the designers can’t keep their businesses afloat. They can’t pay for workshop rent and utilities or pay employees at least minimal wages to buy food and medications.
While prominent international designers were busy doing major fashion week shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, Ukrainian designers, on the other side, started to apply their talents, skills, and workforce to make outfits and combat boots for the military. As all Ukrainians and quite an impressive number of volunteers worldwide (approximately 20,000 people), they do what they can to support the country in such unbelievably horrific times.
After Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine on Feb. 24, Ukrainian designers are using their sewing skills to support the Ukrainian army. Instead of fashionable shoes and stylish outerwear, they are now making camouflage nets, combat boots, and even armoured vests.
Ukrainian designer Serge Smolin (his brand is named Idol), is famous for his impeccably made suits for men, and undoubtedly, men in his suits, oh wow… didn’t they stand out? Nowadays his goal is to make men blend in by providing the Ukrainian soldiers with camouflage nets. When Kyiv had been heavily targeted by Russian artillery and missiles, Smolin left for Western Ukraine, the place where he grew up. Without wasting any time, Serge went for an expedition to the nearest military checkpoint to understand and see what was needed the most. When the designer realized that there is a need for camouflage nets and for people who can weave them, Smolin organized a new team, including his family and artist Serge Payet, foraged rolls of cloth and immediately got to work.
Kachorovska is a very popular Ukrainian shoe brand, which has recently expanded onto creating garments and has a chain of stores in various parts of Kyiv, some with cafes on the first floor. They transformed their space into more than just a store. They wanted friends and customers to come more often and spend more time there. We used to have our business meetings in a cafe at the Kachorovska atelier located in the centre – a meeting place for old and new friends, creative and business people. It was almost always packed. Sadly, all the stores are closed. The brand gained recognition for its fashionable, comfortable, and affordable shoes. Of course, comfort and beauty do not always go together when it comes to shoes. Still, it was Kocharovska’s trademark: fine-looking and modern shoes without sacrificing comfort. But since the war with Russia broke out, the brand has started producing combat boots. From trendy footwear to military boots! The brand works with three different factories that can provide soles, leather, and other materials. Still, most importantly, employees manufacture boots for the Army and Territorial Defense.
Kachorovska’s team produced the first 500 pairs using their own funds. Later, they organized a support group and started accepting donations to cover supplies through social media.
Several fashion brands, Nebesite and Frolov, are making bulletproof vests to support the Armed Forces and Territorial Defense. Nebesite, a famous outerwear brand, was making sale arrangements for the new spring collection when Russia invaded Ukraine. Within 48 hours of the first attacks, the team was on the lookout and contacted experts on how to help the military. The brand partnered with the manufacturer of metal plates for bulletproof vests and are now designing a simplified version of the vests.
Anton Belinsky, a prominent Ukrainian avant-garde designer, tells about his brand in the horrendous times of the war:
“The brand’s production has been stopped for now, but we’ve used that time to think about possible ways to help others through the brand itself. Our business has turned into an organization for humanitarian help. We are in contact with different people and brands united by a common goal: helping those who left the country and those who stayed, thermal sewing underwear, and creating collaborations to raise money for those who really need it now. So work goes on, but just in a different direction.”
Julie Paskal, an internationally well-known designer, the Finalist of the first LVMH prize edition, answers the question about how the global fashion community can support Ukrainian designers:
“Help to promote the designers and place orders. I think collaborations could work well — especially as we are doing our best, but our productions are not working in wartime. Giving space for our creativity could be great. I mean, I can come up with cool ideas of design which would be possible to embody only in collaboration with big brands and more elevated businesses.”
Anna October, another established Ukrainian Designer, reported to Vogue magazine:
“I don’t know what will happen next, but I know that I have the energy, power, and resources, and I have to use them to change the situation and help. I want to go home and continue there, but if there’s anything I want most right now, it’s for people to look at us as other creatives, partners, collaborators, and cool European kids—but not as victims.”
Our only hope is that the world now united with Ukraine finds a way to help Ukrainian businesses endure the war and regain their operations when the peace comes.
It’s impossible to imagine that country with such great, talented, courageous, creative, and willing-to-work people could be destroyed.