American design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will take over creative duties at the Spanish brand – which has generated an estimated turnover of more than $1.5 billion a year under Jonathan Anderson.
Another important piece of the LVMH design jigsaw has emerged: The group has announced a new creative direction for Loewe, led by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schouler, who will officially take over the Spanish luxury leather house from April 7, LVMH announced.
The duo will succeed Jonathan Anderson, who shaped a vision of freedom combining craftsmanship and culture, taking Loewe from a traditional brand to an estimated revenue of more than $1.5 billion/year. Anderson is expected to move to a creative leadership role at Dior – the “sibling” in the same ecosystem LVMH, replacing the positions of Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Proenza Schouler
In 2002, while still classmates at Parsons School of Design, McCollough and Hernandez founded Proenza Schouler – a brand that would later become a phenomenon in the American fashion scene. In a short time, they were quickly honored as the golden faces of American fashion at the dawn of the 21st century, receiving special support from experts, including tycoon Julie Gilhart (former director of Barneys) and queen Anna Wintour (Editor-in-Chief of Vogue).
Their creations are a symphony of personality between breakthrough materials, impressive patterns and modern shapes, creating a subtle dialogue between the spirit of American sportswear and the elegance of European couture. The most resounding success comes from the PS1 bag – a national item at that time – which has become a solid pillar for the brand for many years. With a global and profound vision, Proenza Schouler has contributed to the strong rise of New York fashion, challenging the unique position of the two fashion capitals of Paris and Milan.
Proenza Schouler
With the above achievements, the brand soon became a “bright star” in the world fashion field, inspired by cultural and artistic icons as diverse as painters Helen Frankenthaler and John Currin, director Harmony Korine and singer Annie Lennox . However, they struggled to replicate the success of the utilitarian PS1 bag that preceded it. Later lines featured sculptural yet soft designs – from puffy pleated totes to crescent moon clutches.
“Borderless creativity and a golden hand in craftsmanship are the key elements for the duo to write a promising new chapter for Loewe’s journey.” – Mr. Sidney Toledano, senior leader of LVMH, affirmed.
This is the year LVMH has carried out a “major restructuring” of its creative personnel system at key brands such as Loewe, Givenchy, Fendi and Dior, in search of a new wind after the post-pandemic luxury consumption wave gradually cooled down. Telling numbers such as the group’s revenue falling 2% amid persistent inflation, unpredictable political fluctuations and prolonged stagnation in the Chinese market – considered the “gold mine” of the luxury industry.
In the competitive fashion game, rivals are also repositioning creatively – Kering surprised everyone by bringing Demna to take creative helm at Gucci, while CHANEL is preparing for the highly anticipated debut of Matthieu Blazy.
For Loewe, taking on the legacy of Jonathan Anderson, who created a captivating multidimensional vision and a relentless pace of innovation, will be a challenge. However, McCollough and Hernandez are inheriting a brand at the height of its fame, with a passionate support from the industry. Artistic projects such as the Loewe Craft Prize, exhibitions at Salone del Mobile, and a network of collaborations with high-profile content creators and celebrities will be the perfect launching pad to take their creative vision to the global stage, something that would be difficult to achieve when running a standalone brand.
McCollough and Hernandez left their creative director positions at Proenza Schouler in January but remain on the board. New CEO Shira Suveyke Snyder, who joined last October, is now leading the search for a new creative director for the brand.