Whoever said “fashion is dead” has not seen John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal show.
Not since Alexander McQueen have we witnessed real drama on the runway. The legendary British designer brought theatrics to the runway in a way that has sadly been missing since his demise. At least this was the case until the 25th of January when the Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Artisanal show came along and revived fashion from its tired grave.
Inspired by the “voyeuristic portraiture of Brassaï”, Galliano presented his new collection in a seemingly rundown speakeasy under the Pont Alexandre III in Paris with the hope to emulate Brassai’s 1920s portraits of the underbelly of Paris after dark. This he did, with a collection of erotic sheer bias-cut dresses clothed around the exaggerated silhouettes rivalling Mugler and cinched waists that navigated the thin line between a society trend and the starvation of the poor in a dark yet romantic portrayal. Presenting us with a cast of seedy characters from the whores of Pigalle to the criminals and lowlifes lurking in the shadows.
Many have described the collection as a Toulouse Lautrec painting coming to life or drawn similarities to Kees van Dongen’s works. On a tad less snobby note of recognition, one might find themselves expecting Lady Dimitrescu herself from Resident Evil to make an appearance. This would be fitting since the entirety of the show had a haunting present to it, starting from Leon Dame’s brilliant opening to the show. Ironically, considering the ghostly atmosphere, the show has gathered glee among the audience with the hope of fashion becoming worthwhile again. But why is this? What is it specifically about this show that piqued people’s interest?
A significant cause for the fashion fatigue we are currently experiencing originates from the feeling that we have already seen everything there is to see. Everything has been done to death, and no originality is left to explore. Right? Well, while we might have gone through the roster a few times, after watching John Galliano’s Spring 2024 Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela it became evident that it wasn’t just originality we were missing, it was heart.
We must not forget that fashion, especially haute couture, is in its essence a form of art. And a fashion show is, in fact, supposed to be a show. Unlike other designers who tend to focus solely on the collection, seemingly paying little attention to the overall production aside from a top 20 track playing in the background and an excessively silicon-filled guest list. John Galliano built a show that allowed the collection to wander outside the narrow lines of the catwalk and extend the eerie atmosphere across the venue. From the choice of location to the impeccable make-up artistry of Dame Pat McGrath down to the porcelain-like leather plates designed by the talented Robert Mercier. Every single detail worked seamlessly together, creating a production so immersive it was as if you were transported back to the 1920s.
The models theatrical performance as stilted marionettes added to the experience and gave the impression they might shatter at any moment. Leaving behind the once brilliantly crafted garments in an abandoned pile one might dismiss for garbage. Left behind by a faceless wanderer, hidden in the shadows of the underbelly of Paris.
