New York, London, Milan and Paris are known worldwide for being the fashion capitals and hosting the most influential fashion weeks twice a year. Although many big cities have their own events dedicated to the industry, every fashion enthusiast awaits February and September to discover the latest collections of their favourite designers in the designated ‘Big Four of Fashion.’
Sadly, for all the fashionistas out there, fashion month is over; however, the stunning Spring/Summer 2023 collections recently presented have us dreaming about the moment we will get to wear them. Fringes, sequins, maxi skirts, cargo pants, and monochrome were some of the trends spotted during the September runways, which, as usual, debuted in New York and had a memorable closure in Paris.
Every year, renowned designers and new talents showcase their collections one season ahead in one of the ‘Big Four.’ Traditionally, these four cities have been key locations for hunting trends, introducing styles and launching innovative proposals. But what made them the principal fashion settings?
New York
Fashion weeks, as we know them today, started in ‘the city that never sleeps.’ At the beginning of the 20th century, a store named Ehrich Brothers organized the so-called first American runway to attract new customers. Several other shops in New York replicated this type of event throughout the 1910s and 1920s.
Nonetheless, what is considered the first fashion week of all time took place in the ‘big apple’ in 1943. France was a mecca for fashion at that time, so even American workers in this industry would look forward to the European country’s creative proposals. However, World War II made it impossible for them to continue travelling to Paris.
Thus, the publicist Eleanor Lambert came up with the idea of organizing a fashion week, which was first called ‘Press Week’, in New York to put the spotlight on American designers and give them a chance to be noticed by the fashion press. The series of events were such a success that everyone in the industry started to acclaim the innovative designs of American talents.
The fact that the first fashion week took place in New York made the city gain recognition as a place where you could breathe fashion and reflect a trendy lifestyle with a particular aesthetic: sportswear. This style was further developed in America as an everyday outfit despite being started by the French Jean Patou in the 1930s.
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Paris
The French capital has a long history of couture shows, ever since the 1700s; however, designs were displayed on rigid mannequins at that time. It was in the 1850s when Charles Frederick Worth, the father of Haute Couture, decided to showcase his creations on accurate models.
Years later, in 1945, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture fixed a set of rules to determine which houses could be considered Haute Couture. Some guidelines, like presenting a collection of 35 garments per season to the press, contributed to the initial concept of fashion week.
It was in 1973 when the first official Paris Fashion Week took place. It was organized by the Fédération Française de la Couture as a fundraiser event to renovate the Palace of Versailles, which was also the event’s location.
Then, in 1984, the French designer Thierry Mugler hosted the first fashion show that was opened to the public. This was highly revolutionary as fashion was not as accessible back then as it is today.
Taking the above into account and considering some of the most important fashion designers of all time (such as Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli and Yves Saint Laurent, to name a few) started their careers in the French capital, have made Paris be the epicentre fashion.
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Milan
Milan’s connection to fashion is mainly due to the renowned designers that started their careers in this Italian city during the second half of the 20th century.
As a matter of fact, Italy’s initial fashion capital was Florence. In 1951, the businessman Giovanni Battista Giorgini decided it was time for local fashion to be acclaimed worldwide and thus organized a series of runways to showcase Italian talents, one of them being Emilio Pucci.
The events were so successful that similar ones were presented in Rome and Venice. Later, in 1958, the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana, a nonprofit institution aiming to promote Italian designers, established the country’s official fashion week in Milan. The city’s location and assets were also ideal: a financial and industrial place with a manufacturing history.
Soon, fashion houses like Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada became so popular that all eyes were suddenly on Milan’s glamorous fashion, which at the time was considered more affordable than Paris’.
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London
London Fashion Week is widely known for being the most cutting-edge of all four. With its grungy vibe, England’s capital has captivated every young fashion enthusiast who aims to launch or wear a more eclectic style. Since this city is characterized by its multicultural environment, every experimental or unconventional proposal is welcome. This fashion week was also the latest to become part of the ‘Big four’.
In 1984, the British Fashion Council constituted the year before, held the first London Fashion Week to promote national designs and help them gain international recognition. Considering that some of the most prominent fashion schools are in UK’s capital, there is no doubt why several emerging talents showcase their collections in London.
In fact, John Galliano, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, presented his line ‘Les Incroyables’, inspired by the French Revolution, in London’s first fashion week.
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