It was once again in the heart of the Jardin des Tuileries that the Dior Spring-Summer 2023 show was held on Tuesday September 27, infused with Gothic codes, a new universe that Maria Grazia Chiuri had not yet explored for the House. Here are 6 takeaways from the show.
As often at Dior shows since the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri is at the head of the House, the guests present at the Spring-Summer 2023 show had the opportunity to attend a real performance in collaboration. While the designer talks about “creative energy”, she gave carte blanche to a series of artists to perform during the show, whose collection gave pride of place to grunge influences. With a large majority of black silhouettes, details specific to Gothic fashion, and shoes that will undoubtedly be everywhere next season, Maria Grazia Chiuri proves that her time is far from over at Dior . Here are 6 things to remember from this highlight of Paris Fashion Week.
The and
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©Adrien Dirand
©Adrien Dirand
©Adrien Dirand
©Adrien Dirand
©Adrien Dirand
©Adrien Dirand
As usual, Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to give carte blanche to a female artist to imagine the scenography for the Dior spring-summer 2023 show. And it was Eva Jospin – with whom she had already collaborated for the Dior haute couture fall-winter 2021-2022 show – who imagined the decor in which the models were going to evolve, an incredible baroque cave larger than life made of cardboard, the artist’s favorite material and essential object of his research. Inspiration? The Buttes Chaumont cave in Paris, the Villa Borromeo Visconti Litta in Lombardy and the frescoes of the Palazzina Cinese in Palermo.
The performance of the Renaissance
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The Dior Spring Summer 2023 Show
It is in this context that evolved, throughout the show, alongside the models, the Dutch choreographers and dancers Imre and Marne van Opstal , a creative duo bringing together a sister and a brother, who explore the human condition, the limits and the possibilities of body and mind through multi-layered and often surreal dance. For this parade, they imagined a performance reminiscent of the Renaissance, reinterpreting it in the sense, precisely, of a true renaissance. The dancers evolve in harmony with the collection: the sculptural bodies move like statues, highlighted by the mannequins of Maria Grazia Chiuri .
A map of Paris as a starting point
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For this fashion show, Maria Grazia Chiuri uses, in particular, the image of a map of Paris from the House’s archives, printed on a scarf created in the 1950s and structured around Avenue Montaigne. The print, which is reminiscent of newspaper motifs from the Galliano era at Dior , is displayed on a series of silhouettes featuring unstructured dresses, avant-garde trench coats, streetwear overalls, and bomber jackets.
The updated corset
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The map of Paris used by Maria Grazia Chiuri gives a glimpse of what the legendary Jardin des Tuileries was when it was created. A space desired by Catherine de Medici , an Italian of power who arrived at the court of France in 1533. For this collection, the costumes of the Court are transformed. The designer thus updates the corset by giving it an almost geometric shape that frames the chest. The basque, sometimes hidden, sometimes manifest, outlines a silhouette reminiscent of the wide skirts worn at the court of Catherine de Medici . The whole, always with a very Gothic touch, supported in particular by an exceptional lace.
Statement boots
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This is undoubtedly the piece that will have caused the most talk in this collection. High platform boots punctuated with a series of buckles going up to the knee, combined with a mesh fabric for a result that could not be more grunge. Ultra-fashionable shoes that one would imagine perfectly worn by a very Dior Mercredi Adams . The extra detail? The wedge heel which is not really and gives way to a very vintage little curved heel.
The starry front row
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Natalie Portman
Rosamund Pike
Isabelle Adjani
Shailene Woodley
Maggie Gyllenhaal
Alexandra Daddario
Jisoo
Katherine Langford
Iris Law
Aimee Song
Blanca Miro
Gala González
Camille Cottin
Chiara Ferragni
Elle MacPherson
Juliet Armanet
Isabelle Adjani , Rosamund Pike , Shailene Woodley , Maggie Gyllenhaal , Katherine Langford , Natalie Portman … Many of the muses and friends of the house found themselves side by side in the front row.