Unconventional paths often lead to extraordinary successes, as seen in the story of jewelry designer and RAFKA founder Rafael ‘Rafka’ Koblence. His journey from the wrestling mat to the glittering world of high-end jewelry design is a narrative that defies the traditional roadmap to success, illustrating that the road less traveled can lead to remarkable destinations. In an interview with L’Officiel, Koblence shares his and RAFKA’s inspiring stories about a relentless pursuit of a dream undeterred by life’s twists and turns.
What initially sparked your interest in jewelry design, and how did the work of Carl Fabergé influence your approach?
My fascination with the luxury of jewelry began at a young age. A book showcasing the exquisite jewelry collections of Peter Carl Fabergé crafted for the Royal Court first captured my imagination. The intricate detailing and the evident passion and skill in each piece resonated deeply with me. So, from being a national wrestling champion, life took an unexpected turn, awakening a similar passion to create.
Relocating to the US, I immersed myself in the world of antiques and old-world artistry. My journey in refining my craft began in Boston and later flourished in New York. Here, I dedicated myself to realizing a lifelong ambition – making jewelry creations.
Your designs are known for their attention to detail. Can you elaborate on your design philosophy and approach to creating a new piece?
More often than not, I create my ideas and designs in my mind and then sketch them before sourcing gems or materials for the project. Sometimes, a beautiful or unique color stone,
diamond, or other gem triggers ideas for my creations. I also draw much inspiration from classic and unconventional shapes that seem challenging to make into jewelry.
RAFKA is known for its stunning, bespoke creations. What does the process look like?
One of the critical aspects of creating custom commissions is the relationship between myself as the designer and the client. I first listen closely to the client’s needs and desires for the commissioned work and create something that meets their requirements and exceeds their expectations.
The time I spend creating custom designs depends on the complexity, detail, and level of artistry required to complete a piece. Generally, once the design is finalized, depending on the size of the piece, it could take anywhere from four weeks to six months to bring the design to life.
How would you describe your signature style, and how has it evolved over the years?
My design is always rooted in my vision of bringing ‘yesterday, today.’ By that, it means the seamless combination and integration of technology and artisanal, old-world craftsmanship. I believe in blending the two elements to create timeless yet relevant pieces today, giving them timeless mystique and intrinsic value.
RAFKA also takes pride in its unique play of light and color. As seen in our Heirloom jewelry collection, the designs are usually bold statements, with a combination of colors perfectly matched to create a unique, timeless design. This is what sets our creations apart, making them not just jewelry but wearable art.
Do you have a personal favorite or one that holds special significance among all the pieces you’ve created?
Because no two pieces are alike, each holds a special place in my heart. My creations, crafted by hand, contain within them a piece of me, my soul, as they all were original and classical inspirations successfully brought to life.
But if I had to choose among all the gems I have worked with over the past years, I would say the high-quality Colombian Emeralds. I adore emeralds’ rich green luster and unique softness, especially the ones of Colombian origin, known for their quality, rarity, and vibrance.
Do you have an unforgettable client story for a specific custom-made piece?
I have a lot of memorable moments in my career. But one thing immediately comes to mind. My son Phillip, a graduate of UPENN, had one of his closest friends, Scott, come to me when he decided to get an engagement ring for his fiancé. Scott was a young lawyer who wanted to get remarried to a beautiful young woman from Eastern Europe. I never met her, and I only had a picture of her left hand holding a champagne flute to go off for sizing.
He gave me his budget and showed me what style of ring and stone he wanted to guide my design. Honestly, the design he gave me lacked elegance. So I told him I would make him a ring of my design, and if he didn’t think it was the perfect ring, then he had no obligation to purchase it, and I would be happy to make another ring to his liking. He was immediately brought to tears when he saw the ring I had crafted for him. It was very touching and something I will never forget.
What advice would you give young, aspiring jewelers starting in the industry?
Find what kind of jewelry you are passionate about; the rest will fall into place. There is a veritable ocean of creations; don’t be afraid to stand out and discover ways to set you apart. Developing the individuality of your designs is the foundational key to success.
Where do you see RAFKA in the following years, and what are your aspirations for the brand?
My vision for RAFKA is to become a staple in our customers’ jewelry collections. The team is dedicated to integrating modern technologies to refine our processes, particularly in procuring the finest materials and gemstones. This initiative aims to enhance and pronounce the authenticity and precision of our craftsmanship.
As a distinctive part of our collection is the use of vibrant, unique gems, we aspire to ignite a deeper appreciation for the elegance inherent in these pieces. This is a work, especially among those yet to discover the exquisite blend of traditional artisanship and premium materials that RAFKA is renowned for.
Looking back on your journey, what has been the key to your and RAFKA’s success?
Reflecting on my journey, I believe the key to our success is a cohesive work of various elements. It began with a deep-seated passion and a unique vision for jewelry design, which evolved through inspiration drawn from admired figures and enriching encounters. Challenges and triumphs have marked the path, each serving as a stepping stone to further growth. This industry is demanding, yet my steadfastness and belief in the transformative power of my designs have been crucial. The joy and fulfillment these creations bring to our clientele continually fuels my journey and that of RAFKA.
High Jewelry Cleopatra Necklace