It’s no surprise that the release of the highly-anticipated Barbie movie has reignited the public’s love for the colour pink. Crowds clad in raspberry, fuchsia or rosy hues can be seen buzzing around theatres at all times. But what is the story behind this colour so clouded in controversy, and how can something so trivial as a colour be reflective of culture?
Throughout the years, pink has become deeply interlinked with the concepts of gender and identity and their representation. This colour’s journey can be traced through various forms of art and media, from fashion to film to advertising.
In the early 20th century, pink was considered a powerful colour, a slightly desaturated version of the passionate red. It was strongly tied to the notion of masculinity, so the idea of pink as “girly” was only popularised later on. It was only during the 1940s that the significance of the colour began to shift towards being considered “feminine”.
Elsa Schiaparelli’s “Shocking Pink” was launched in 1937. It referenced the idea of gendered colours but instead subverted traditional notions of gender. Straying away from the “dainty” and “fragile” baby pink, the unapologetically bold hue embodies all of the characteristics then associated with men: assertive, dominant, and confident. In the words of Elsa herself, “Shocking Pink” is “Bright, impossible, impudent, becoming, life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world put together… a shocking colour”.
After the radical period of societal change that accompanied the two world wars, the 1950s showed a willingness to conform to societal standards. Pink was worn in film by leading ladies who embodied beauty and traditionally feminine roles. Marylin Monroe’s iconic dress in “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” and Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in “Funny Face” are unforgettable examples.
The 1960s and 70s saw the rise of feminism and the rejection of outdated perspectives of identity. The pink triangle was reclaimed in a bold hue by a group of artists in New York called Gran Fury, and became a symbol for the gay rights movement. Many punk artists at the time also adopted this bright colour. This was the antithesis of the soft pink tones seen on Jackie Kennedy or Brigitte Bardot in previous years, and represented rebellion, subversion and breaking free from tradition.
The public’s perspective of pink in the 90s and early 2000s can be seen in movies such as “Legally Blonde”, which challenged ideas of femininity by showing smart and ambitious lawyer Elle Woods wearing pink. However, the colour pink became even more gendered during this time, due to heavy marketing and branding, as seen in children’s clothes and toys such as Barbies and Bratz.
Now, the colour pink is ostensibly becoming less associated with preconceptions of gender identity. This can be seen in newer collections, such as Valentino’s mega-bold Pierpaolo Piccioli Pink. Designers are exploring pink as a powerful expression of emotion and individuality. What will be next for this colour?
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