In fashion, there have been so many styles from centuries gone by that have made aSTRONG comeback. And it is once again back to the history books during theSpring/Summer 2023 showings. There is a heavy dose of the 1940s in the designs with broad-shouldered suits with fitted bodies tightly nipped waistlines and peplums plus a heavy injection of the early 1900s and designers seem to be under the spell of Serge Diaghilev and the Ballet Russe, for which Picasso designed some costumes.
History Repeats Itself
Although peplum is often thought of as a “love-to-hate” trend, its significance in fashion
history couldn’t be undermined and, as we can see in recent shows, that look isn’t going
anywhere. We might remember peplum’s recent popularity as a cringe-inducing trend,
nevertheless, there’s a vast history of examples that show how sophisticated and timeless
peplum can be.
A peplum is a layer, small or exaggerated, of assembled or pleated fabric attached to the
garment’s waistline (jackets, blouses, skirts, tops,) to create a superfluity effect. A peplum
can be sewn diagonally or horizontally and can be loose and architectural or sleek and lithe.
The history of the peplum goes back to Ancient Greek clothing. First named peplos in 500
BC, early peplums were huge swaths of cloth cinched and then pulled up at the waist,
creating a “double bubble” effect of fabric right around the hips. The goddess Athena, a
Louvre statue from 5 B.C., is proudly wearing a stone one.
Both Greek men and women wore loosely-fitted “peplos,” the Greek word for tunic. At the time, peplos were mostly made from wool.
During the Renaissance 1300, the peplum took on a more structured form and extended outward like a short skirt that was attached to another garment at the waist area. During the Baroque era 17th–18th century, large farthingales were discarded and skirts were merely layered or padded at the hips to produce a full, flowing look. Typically, there were two skirts worn, the overskirt (manteau) open at the front and forming a bustle or train at the back, and an underskirt.
Beautiful baroque style court dresses that were popular at the courts of Louis XIV and Charles II.
Interestingly enough, the Peplum was reintroduced in the 19th century and it is a trend that’s here to stay.
Peplum shapes and structures have got through evolution. Basically, this type of
embellishment was meant to minimize and highlight the waist by emphasizing the hips.
As we all well know, fashion in the 19th century was about WAIST contouring when women
used to go to great lengths to clinch their waists tighter and tighter (Holy Corsets!) but the
Peplum enhanced and accentuated the hourglass silhouette of a woman.
The 20th century brought the Peplum back minus the waist-cinching pain — Genius!
Peplums have been in and out, in cycles, coming back in the ‘50s (after WWII, when women
repudiated their war outfits for more feminine designs), the ‘80s (big hips, big shoulders),
and, of course, the ‘90s.
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40s
Dior’s New Look
1995 – THIERRY MUGLER, “BIRTH OF VENUS” DRESS
Alexander McQueen, fall 2009
As much as my friends say that they’d never wear a peplum again, all it will take is the right
cool designer to make them change their minds.
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Jason Wu FW 2022
Richard Quinn 2022-2023 Fall Winter
Louis Vuitton, resort 2023 ready-to-wear Photo: Isidore Montag
Christian Siriano SS2023
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Juun.J SS2023
Molly Goddard SS2023 LFW
Molly Goddard SS2023 LFW
David Koma SS2023 LFW
Simone Rocha SS2023 LFW
Simone Rocha SS2023 LFW
Erdem Pre-Spring 2023 LFW
Thom Browne SS2023 PFW
Balmain SS2023 PFW
Peplums are fun! The whole point of a peplum is that it celebrates a waist-to-hip curve, and
the peplum thing really is happening! Again!
Balmain SS2023 PFW