Heroin chic was all the rage in the mid-90s. If trends recycle every 20 years or so, is it possible that the out of control fashion and lifestyle is making its comeback?
The 90’s Party Girl
Imagine it now. It’s 1995, Kate Moss enters the party with a cigarette draped on her lips. Her waif-like figure makes her way through the club surrounded by her then-boyfriend Johnny Depp, the world’s biggest rockstars, and her supermodel entourage. It may be three in the morning, but for this crew, a night of sex, drugs, and rock n’ roll has only just begun…
The fashion landscape of the 80s and early 90s celebrated the bright-eyed, fresh-faced models of the moment. Brooke Shields, Christie Brinkley, Elle Macpherson, and of course Cindy Crawford charmed the glossy pages of fashion magazines, representing the ultimate girl next door. They were traditionally beautiful, had a wholesome look, and had the right level of sex appeal, creating the standard of beauty for women throughout the world.
Enter the mid-90s. The term “heroin chic” was popularized by the fashion world. The idea of heroin chic was characterized by certain features in up and coming top fashion models. This included pale skin, dark undereye circles, and being thin and almost androgynous. This was a direct pushback against the good girl standard in a fashion that had been popular at the time. We started to see thin stick models who looked like they hadn’t slept in 3 days take over the fashion and social scenes, taking copious amounts of drugs and somehow “making it fashion.” The queen of heroin chic, Kate Moss, was the icon of the time, drawing attention for her undeniable style and her very public drug use.
While the fashion magazines of the time weren’t directly sharing the message that “drugs are cool,” the aesthetic shown on their covers and editorials alluded to the party girl lifestyle. It was well known in the 90s that cocaine=skinny. Cocaine fundamentally alters the body’s metabolism, making it increasingly difficult for the body to store fat. So it makes sense that the party girl supermodels maintained this raucous lifestyle while maintaining their low weights, but how was the fashion consumer supposed to respond to these trends?
In the mid-90s, drug use became more socially acceptable amongst the middle class. Before that, heroin and cocaine addictions were stigmas attached to lower-income areas. If you think about it, these heroin chic super stars directly created the narrative that partying all night and using drugs with hundred dollar bills was the embodiment of fashion. We started seeing rehab as not a place for unwell addicted people to seek treatment, but almost as a trendy place for celebrities to wait out their slaps on the wrist.
Bulimia has now entered the chat. Studies show a spike in bulimia, an eating disorder associated with binging and purging, in the 90s due to the ideal body image portrayed by the media. These trends had severe negative repercussions for those who treated fashion magazines like the Bible. Not only were we glorifying illegal and harmful drug use, but we also encouraged behaviours that in many cases lead to serious health problems, including death.
The Resurgence
They say that much like the history, fashion repeats itself. This is referred to as the “20-Year Rule.” This philosophy expresses that something popular now will be popular again in 20 years, give or take a few years. That said, it makes sense that now we are seeing a comeback of 90s to early 2000s trends, popularly known as Y2K style. Today’s fashion icons, including the Hadid Sisters, Dua Lipa, the Kardashian/Jenner family, and Zendaya, have all expressed these throwbacks in their own unique ways. Gen Z LOVES vintage fashion, and we are seeing a resurgence of these iconic looks in social media, magazines, and even pop culture.
At first glance, this comeback of trends is cute and harmless. Fun colours, glitter, mini-skirts…it’s giving Spice Girls more than anything. But as the movement evolves, it is impossible to ignore how this 90s culture revival can be detrimental for those who religiously consume fashion media.
The conversation is now evolving. The biggest celebrities of today are reverting back not only in style but also in body shape. We see long-legged skinny models and actresses reclaiming their places as girls in society. Even Kim Kardashian has reportedly had the filler in her famous bum dissolved. So now that we have mid 90s fashion back in style and thin is in is the 3rd factor of the heroin chic trend next to resurface?
Euphoria Dysmorphia
If you haven’t been living under a rock, you are probably familiar with HBO”s hit show Euphoria, starring Zendaya. This show has taken the fashion and beauty world by storm, featuring creative makeup looks and a unique fashion styling direction. Euphoria follows the chaotic lives of a group of high schoolers as they explore the very same topics as their heroin chic ancestors: sex, drugs, and rock n roll.
There is no doubt that this show is THE moment, garnering attention from both fashion, news, and entertainment platforms. This Emmy winning series has been praised for its innovation in beauty and styling. Still, nobody seems to be concerned that we are watching (fictional, of course) teenagers spiral out of control to the point of overdose and violence. Euphoria completes the heroin chic cycle, setting a dangerous standard for fashion and beauty lovers inspired and influenced by pop culture.
Listen, I love dramatic television more than just about anybody, but at a certain point, we need to evaluate what is and should be aspirational. The 90s inspired clothes? Great! The 90s inspired party girl lifestyle? Not so great. Having witnessed my fair share of manic cocaine infused meltdowns by stick thin Americans in Paris…I can promise you that the 2022 version of heroin chic is definitively NOT a good look. So maybe we can just stick to the slip dresses and call it a day.