The usual formats are not available, the old schedule is out of date. The designers are looking for the new ways, updating the dates — the shows must go on.
Over the digital presentation format that many designers have chosen, Jonathan Anderson, the Creative Director of LOEWE, preferred to publish his own newspaper. A loud statement “THE LOEWE SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELED” is placed on the front page.
“The show has been cancelled” as a narrative backdrop to the collection and this idea of the headline.” J. Anderson
The choice of this format was also dictated by the desire to go beyond the fashion-oriented audience, becoming a daily newspaper covering what is happening in the present moment, supported by Le Figaro and Le Monde in France, El Mundo of Spain, The Times of London, The New York Times, and Japan’s The Asahi Shimbun.
“I was trying to work on any media that was not digital and which was going to take the show to a mass audience. Now, if you pick up a newspaper somewhere — well, even if you don’t want it, you’re getting it.”
© LOEWE
Packed in a striking laser-engraved metal case with a paper knife in a bright case, the newspaper presents Jonathan Anderson’s Fall/Winter collection for LOEWE and the first chapter of a new novel by renowned American writer and one of the best-selling authors of all time, Daniel Steele ‘The Affair’. This move is a tribute to the literary traditions of the serialization of famous works of the 19th century.
“I just thought it was nice to put a literary backdrop to the collection like something where that kind of immediacy that you get when you start reading a novel.”
© LOEWE
The shootings with color yellow as a unifying factor were held in different places: the restaurant Le Train Bleu in Paris, a private club on the Champs Elysees and the Loewe office. A famous Danish top model Freja Beha demonstrated the new collection through the lens of the Japanese photographer Fumiko Imano.
In a video posted on the official Loewe YouTube channel, Jonathan Anderson comments on his collection to the sound of the press being printed while sitting on an impressive pile of newspapers.
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LOEWE Fall Winter 2021 Women’s collection walkthrough with Jonathan Anderson
The mood of the collection is playful and cheerful. Vibrant acrylic colors are cleverly combined with the abstract silhouettes, giant tassels, fringe and applique.
© LOEWE
Zig-zag prints and oversized buckles complement the drapery. The buckles, deeply and especially loved by Jonathan Anderson, are found throughout the collection — in clothes, accessories and shoes.
“I’ve always been fascinated by buckles on 17th century and 18th century shoes. And I liked this idea that then they became de-emossed by wrapping the leather around it.”
© LOEWE
The collection is dominated by geometry. Sinuous lines alternate with the straight ones, while the accessories dissolve on surfaces.
© LOEWE
Graphic elements accentuate the pragmatism of the form, and the cutouts give a sex appeal hint.
© LOEWE
Along with the new bags — Flamenco and Goya, which Jonathan christened as “the new icon” — the designer presented the famous Amazona archive bag, which became famous in the 70s, in its new interpretation. It is available in the signature jacquard pattern in a variety of colors.
© LOEWE
It’s both the shoes with that very recognizable buckle and the ones on a massive platform that draw one’s attention. While contrasting with graceful outfits, they subtly complement them.