Unveiling the Perfumer's Journey: An Interview with George Zaharoff
Discover the captivating world of renowned perfumer George Zaharoff as he shares his remarkable journey and experiences in an exclusive interview with L'Officiel Monaco. From his early inspirations to his creative process in developing exquisite fragrances, Zaharoff's expertise shines through his innovative approach to perfumery. Join us as we delve into the artistry behind the Zaharoff brand and uncover the secrets behind its exceptional creations, all in this captivating conversation with a true fragrance visionary.
Can you share your journey and experience as a perfumer: what inspired you to pursue this career?
Creating a fragrance is an art form in and of itself. I have been the creative force behind the Zaharoff brand since the early 1990s. When it comes to the Zaharoff collection of fragrances, I wanted a "best in class" for each of the many categories of fragrance. For example, for citrus, we have CITRINE; for musk, ROYALE X; and for rose, ROSÉ.
Fragrance is one thing that, if done properly, can really get one's vision out into the world. When I started in the 1990s (I was 20 years old!), there was no internet; I would physically visit every Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Bergdorf Goodman store in the country. Zaharoff would hold events at these 200+ locations where I would introduce myself to customers and train the sales staff. I did this four times a year!
The internet has changed these dynamics drastically. Coming from a background of brick- and-mortar (meaning physical location) businesses, I had to reinvent myself, especially while working during the pandemic. I am very, very grateful to the many individuals who have supported and continue to support the Zaharoff brand.
What is your creative process like when developing a new fragrance?
The entire process takes about two years. I design everything myself, and everything is custom made for Zaharoff. This takes a little longer since there are design molds involved and every fragrance tells a different story. The one individual who is most important is Zaharoff's nose, or parfumeur, Master Perfumer Claude Dir. His genius, along with my vision, is the bright band of light that connects the entire collection that is the Zaharoff Signature Series. Zaharoff's fragrances come out of Grasse-based MANE, who is also an incredible partner.
The fragrance must be developed first before I can actually create the other parts, such as the bottle, cap, box, marketing, etc. Monsieur Claude and I go into a project knowing the type of fragrance being created—say, a gourmand—but everything else comes after the fragrance has been chosen.
Love is in the details. I try to pay close attention to the little things because they are what make Zaharoff stand out amongst the hundreds of other houses and thousands of perfumes out there in the market.
Can you discuss a particular fragrance you've created that holds a special significance for you?
Each fragrance holds something so special to me. The Zaharoff Signature Pour Homme is so dear to me because I had wanted to create this one fragrance for three decades. Its DNA can be found in all the other fragrances within the Signature line.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and preferences in the fragrance industry?
It is important to pay attention to trends, but not to follow them. I consider Zaharoff to be a disruptor in the industry, especially in the online space. I interact with the online fragrance community often and have done collaborations with a few fragrance content creators.
Zaharoff is entry-level luxury. I want to present a luxury fragrance that can compete with many well-known brands but at a lower price. I also try to be very careful with the distribution so that my "children" do not end up in the grey market.
Collaboration is often key in the creative industry. Have you worked with other perfumers or industry professionals on any projects?
When I first entered this space in 2018, I was intrigued by the business model itself. I came from the retail brick-and-mortar side of the business and was intrigued by the different online fragrance content creators. At the time, I saw them as little brands in their own right. I went to MANE and asked them if they would partner with me to create some fragrances with them, to which they agreed. This was a one-time-only, limited-run collaboration.
In 2020, the very first "ZedCreators" fragrances were created in collaboration with
three YouTube content creators: Ross Carlos of TLTG Reviews, Justin Copeland from Stay Fresh Productions, and Andrea Charls, aka Curly Scents. It was a tremendous success. It also helped propel Zaharoff out into the world as well as solidify Zaharoff as a brand to watch out for. Then, in 2022, we launched "ZedCreators 2.0" with the same trio, which, as of this writing, is ongoing. Curly's fragrance "Of the Immortals" was nominated for an award by The Fragrance Foundation.
Are there any specific challenges you've faced in your career as a perfumer, and how did you overcome them?
For those who wish to express themselves through fashion, accessories, fragrances, etc., it is not for the faint of heart. Zaharoff's timeline is quite the story. I started The House of Zaharoff at age 20, right after graduating from DePaul University in 1992. In the 90s, I had to exist at a time when Zaharoff was in 200+ retail stores and when it was all about weekly sell-throughs (sell-through is the percentage of stock sold to the end customer at full price). Every Monday morning, there would be a breakdown of the sales per store, which was very stressful yet rewarding. It allowed me to think outside the box to make sure our products sold. Zaharoff was able to thrive in this space.
As we went into the 2000s, 9/11 changed things for Zaharoff. We were about to sell the fragrance division to Escada Beauté and 9/11 was the day we were going to sign the contract. Of course, it was never signed because of the economics, which put both Zaharoff and Escada into financial distress. It was Nordstrom that came to me and helped me get back on my feet through a license with Chicago-based Hartmarx. During this period, Zaharoff was creating men's tailored clothing: suits, sport jackets, outerwear, formalwear, men's furnishings, etc. It was an incredible 15+ years until Hartmarx filed bankruptcy and the license was taken over by Brooks Brothers. With this partnership, Zaharoff moved into a beautiful flagship store on Oak Street in Chicago, right up until the pandemic. Brooks Brothers filed bankruptcy, thus releasing Zaharoff from its license, and in 2018, I decided to relaunch the fragrances. I haven't looked back since.
As one can imagine, it hasn't been easy. However, the love of what I do is strong, and from everything I have been through, I don't see obstacles as dead ends. Instead, I see them as a means to find another way to get whatever it is I want.
What do you consider as the defining characteristics of your perfumes?
Zaharoff is a luxury brand defined by modern American style rooted in the classics. What makes Zaharoff stand out is the art behind each fragrance, each creation. Each one of my creations has a story, which is why I call them my “children”.
What can we expect from you in the near future in terms of new scent creations?
Movement is life. Stagnation is not a word connected with fashion, especially in an age of "fast fashion". Yes, there is something called "fast fragrance" or "fragrance churning", which means having to compete in a space searching for the next shiny thing. We have a gourmand fragrance coming at the end of 2023, a Private Blend collection separate from the Signature line, and a "blue" style fragrance in the works. We are also expanding into the European market with the opening of our office on Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
