Beautiful lingerie not only has the ability to empower its wearer, but offers a unique oppotunity for self-expression through daring fashion choices. Bordelle is the brainchild of founder Alexandra Popa who created the label to fill a gap in the market for experimental lingerie that blurs the lines between seduction and ready to wear. Armed with a degree and master in Economics and Management and a previous tenure at a small London based design studio, Alexandra developed the concept of Bordelle from her premises, independently financing it and working with freelance creatives to define and refine the luxury bondage aesthetic that has since become iconic.
Tell us about your greatest strength as a professional?
I have a low aversion to risk. With hindsight, I think this attribute really helped me to grow Bordelle from a home-based start-up into a brand where everything from initial design concept to production and distribution is fully integrated and privately owned. In the early stages I always thought my lack of technical training was my greatest setback and potential downfall, but now I see the upside as it pushed me to take risks and think outside the box, despite at times being laughed at. I am now very driven by taking on new challenges, developing and testing new ideas and learning and growing in the process.
Why did you decide to strike out on your own as a fashion designer?
My background is not in design. At university I studied Economics and did a Master in Management and Organizational Psychology but I quickly learnt that a job in the city was not for me. On a personal level, I had a great interest in beautifully made lingerie and owned a collection of pieces that I barely wore but bought and kept for its elements of artistry and craft. When I landed a job in the fashion industry, I was intrigued by the level of design innovation that was sweeping the catwalks on a seasonal basis, yet in the lingerie world designs were kept to a minimum, with a hyper focus on comfort and fit, overtly romanticized or straight out vulgar. The concept of Bordelle was born from a realization that there existed a niche for more directional lingerie with a strong design aesthetic that could be worn to be seen and valued on par with ready-to-wear.
Alexandra Popa – Founder of Bordelle Lingerie
Where do you look for creative inspiration?
In the start-up phase I did not follow the traditional theme-based design approach that is so textbook in design school. A collection would be centered around the key concept of an aesthetic that blends 24 carat gold plated hardware with customized satin elastic strapping to create adjustable, worn to be seen styles, that became iconic and recognizable. I have since adopted a more narrative based approach to maintain cohesion across collections, but it’s important for me to not feel constrained by very specific design themes. Key design ideas have stemmed from architecture, art, music and nature, my personal favorite being bioluminescence which led to the development of glow in the dark embroidery.
Who was a mentor to you?
The biggest help and professional advice have come from my father, I have no other business mentor. From starting my business with a family loan which he agreed to only through a contract that charged 7% interest, to being there and problem solving with me over Brexit, he has been my main sounding board.
Tell us more about the beginning of your career.
The beginning was very chaotic but also incredibly exciting. Luckily, more could be achieved then on a much smaller budget. Social media practically did not exist, online shops were limited and websites were basic and archaic looking in comparison, with a focus on guerilla style marketing to get you in the right store or fashion magazine. Given the label’s risky proposition and message, the launch in Selfridges department store during London Fashion Week in 2009 was ideal in terms of brand awareness, encouraging other stores to follow suit. Within a very short period, the brand was talked about and featured in many high fashion publications and stylists were pulling looks for international super stars. Looking back, I am amazed at how much organic exposure Bordelle received. Things just don’t happen this way anymore.
What is your greatest fear, and how do you manage fear?
Fear of failure, which ironically is the essence of professional and personal growth is a great fear of mine. Unsurprisingly, I had many setbacks at the start of my career in the lingerie industry. I was very young, naïve and inexperienced, with little knowledge of the intricacies of lingerie construction and production. I learnt a lot on the job and was lucky to meet and work with great people who contributed to the overall success. Small advancements such as being featured in Vogue or being commissioned to make outfits for Lady Gaga gave me great hope. Ultimately, the only way to manage fear is to face it. I now view failure as an essential part of a didactic journey; I may not like it or be fully comfortable with it, but it serves a purpose.
Is there anything you wish you could tell your younger self?
There is so much but I have managed to narrow it down to my top three:
- Place more value on personal health and wellbeing
- Success in any field is highly dependent on your ability to truly listen
- Follow not only what you love but what you are very good at. I think true passion can only be born out of being or becoming very good at something
Is it hard to stay innovative?
Innovation requires an experimental mindset, one of genuine curiosity. At Bordelle we take great pride in our collaborative and diverse approach, achieved over many years of working together and defining a clear shared vision. It has been difficult at times because being innovative also involves having the courage to take risks and it takes time to create and foster such a culture, but once there, it’s a game changer that has allowed for plenty of light bulb moments!
Tell us about the brand’s reinvention
I am very excited to unveil the first phase of Bordelle’s renaissance with a new visual identity. A new logo typeface and monogram have been designed with a plan to represent a broader Bordelle world which could, at some point, extend beyond lingerie and bodywear. Classical all-caps typography has been combined with minimalistic, graphic elements to evoke a timeless, contemporary feel designed to be current and long lasting to project Bordelle into the future. The makeover marks a key stage in Bordelle’s gradual transformation. Other cornerstones of this phase include a new website, an updated social media look and artistic, narrative based campaign imagery to be launched in conjunction with the new season.
Tell us about your new lingerie collection.
The new season will land online and in stores in three drops, starting from mid-November. The collection is inspired by the visualisation of sound and divided into three ranges, depicting the different ways sound can be visualised: through vibration frequency, musical instruments, and colour.
Presented through an artistic and narrative based campaign, the collection reveals a Bordelle utopia of liberating self-expression. Two close friends bask uninhibited in a nostalgic, old-glamour Italian villa, celebrating their individualism with candour and soft confidence.
Part I, titled Kleio, is available in classic black, burnt red and sage. The range combines soft mesh and satin elastic strapping in adjustable, wearable shapes. Pieces are heavily detailed with a 24k gold-plated chain-link component inspired by musical notes, with a nod to the risqué beginnings of Bordelle.
Part II, titled Cymatic is crafted from a unique custom-made embroidery that illustrates the Cymatic image of the word ‘Bordelle’ being spoken into a microphone, using a cymascope. Embroidered onto a nude recycled tulle base, the collection is available in Black, Burnt Red and Sage. The range is a celebration of the female form, appealing to the romantic with its soft front facing aesthetic, but true to its Bordelle form when viewed from the back.
Part III, titled Onda is a capsule of understated shapes in premium materials, with a focus on fit and comfort. Available in black, navy, and plum colorways, the custom designed Swiss embroidery is reminiscent of ripples and illustrates the vibrations of sound on water. As with the Cymatic range, the collection is embroidered onto recycled tulle as part of Bordelle’s continued commitment towards a more sustainable future.
